Skip to content
Independent field notes from the heart of the Dolomites

100 ways into the mountains

The Cortina Field Journal

Deeply practical dispatches on where to go, when to leave, what to bring, and why each place matters.

Cortina d'Ampezzo in the Ampezzo Valley surrounded by Dolomites peaks
Start here · 12 min

The Complete Cortina d'Ampezzo Travel Guide

A field-tested guide to the complete cortina d'ampezzo travel guide, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Read the essential guide

Expert planning notes

All the cortina field journal guides

Travel Guide · Guide 02

First Time in Cortina: Everything You Need to Know

A field-tested guide to first time in cortina: everything you need to know, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 03

How to Get to Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to how to get to cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 04

Getting Around Cortina Without a Car

A field-tested guide to getting around cortina without a car, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 05

Cortina on a Budget

A field-tested guide to cortina on a budget, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 06

The Best Things to Do in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to the best things to do in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 07

Hidden Gems in Cortina Most Visitors Miss

A field-tested guide to hidden gems in cortina most visitors miss, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 08

Cortina d'Ampezzo With Kids

A field-tested guide to cortina d'ampezzo with kids, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 09

A Local's Guide to Corso Italia

A field-tested guide to a local's guide to corso italia, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 10

Day Trips From Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to day trips from cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 11

Cortina vs Ortisei: Which Dolomites Base Is Better?

A field-tested guide to cortina vs ortisei: which dolomites base is better?, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Travel Guide · Guide 12

Cortina vs Bolzano: Where Should You Stay?

A field-tested guide to cortina vs bolzano: where should you stay?, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 13

Best Hikes Around Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to best hikes around cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 14

Lago di Sorapis Hike: Complete Trail Guide

A field-tested guide to lago di sorapis hike: complete trail guide, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 15

Cinque Torri Hike and Open-Air Museum

A field-tested guide to cinque torri hike and open-air museum, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 16

Tre Cime di Lavaredo Day Trip From Cortina

A field-tested guide to tre cime di lavaredo day trip from cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 17

Croda da Lago Circuit: Complete Hiking Guide

A field-tested guide to croda da lago circuit: complete hiking guide, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 18

Tofana di Rozes Hike and Rifugio Giussani

A field-tested guide to tofana di rozes hike and rifugio giussani, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 19

Lagazuoi Tunnels and Kaiserjäger Trail

A field-tested guide to lagazuoi tunnels and kaiserjäger trail, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 20

Easy Walks in Cortina for Beginners

A field-tested guide to easy walks in cortina for beginners, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 21

Best Family Hikes Near Cortina

A field-tested guide to best family hikes near cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 22

Cortina Via Ferrata Guide for Beginners

A field-tested guide to cortina via ferrata guide for beginners, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 23

Alta Via 1 From Cortina: Planning Guide

A field-tested guide to alta via 1 from cortina: planning guide, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 24

Best Rifugio-to-Rifugio Hikes Near Cortina

A field-tested guide to best rifugio-to-rifugio hikes near cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 25

Hiking to Rifugio Nuvolau and Averau

A field-tested guide to hiking to rifugio nuvolau and averau, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hiking · Guide 26

Val Fiscalina and Croda Rossa Day Hike

A field-tested guide to val fiscalina and croda rossa day hike, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Lakes · Guide 27

Most Beautiful Lakes Near Cortina

A field-tested guide to most beautiful lakes near cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Lakes · Guide 28

Lago di Braies From Cortina: Complete Day Trip

A field-tested guide to lago di braies from cortina: complete day trip, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Lakes · Guide 29

Lago di Misurina Visitor Guide

A field-tested guide to lago di misurina visitor guide, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Lakes · Guide 30

Lago di Dobbiaco Day Trip Guide

A field-tested guide to lago di dobbiaco day trip guide, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Lakes · Guide 31

Lago Federa Hike and Photography Guide

A field-tested guide to lago federa hike and photography guide, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Lakes · Guide 32

Lago Ghedina: Cortina's Woodland Lake

A field-tested guide to lago ghedina: cortina's woodland lake, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Lakes · Guide 33

Best Sunrise Lakes in the Dolomites

A field-tested guide to best sunrise lakes in the dolomites, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Lakes · Guide 34

Can You Swim in the Lakes Near Cortina?

A field-tested guide to can you swim in the lakes near cortina?, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 35

Cortina Skiing Guide for First-Time Visitors

A field-tested guide to cortina skiing guide for first-time visitors, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 36

Best Ski Runs in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to best ski runs in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 37

Cortina Ski Passes Explained

A field-tested guide to cortina ski passes explained, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 38

Skiing the Sellaronda From Cortina

A field-tested guide to skiing the sellaronda from cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 39

Beginner Skiing in Cortina

A field-tested guide to beginner skiing in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 40

Cortina Ski Schools and Private Lessons

A field-tested guide to cortina ski schools and private lessons, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 41

Where to Rent Skis in Cortina

A field-tested guide to where to rent skis in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 42

Après-Ski in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to après-ski in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 43

Cross-Country Skiing Around Cortina

A field-tested guide to cross-country skiing around cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 44

Winter Hiking and Snowshoeing in Cortina

A field-tested guide to winter hiking and snowshoeing in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 45

Skiing Cortina With Kids

A field-tested guide to skiing cortina with kids, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Skiing · Guide 46

Cortina Ski Season: Snow, Dates, and Conditions

A field-tested guide to cortina ski season: snow, dates, and conditions, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hotels · Guide 47

Where to Stay in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to where to stay in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hotels · Guide 48

Best Luxury Hotels in Cortina

A field-tested guide to best luxury hotels in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hotels · Guide 49

Best Boutique Hotels in Cortina

A field-tested guide to best boutique hotels in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hotels · Guide 50

Best Budget Hotels and Guesthouses in Cortina

A field-tested guide to best budget hotels and guesthouses in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hotels · Guide 51

Best Family Hotels in Cortina

A field-tested guide to best family hotels in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hotels · Guide 52

Best Ski-In Ski-Out Hotels in Cortina

A field-tested guide to best ski-in ski-out hotels in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hotels · Guide 53

Hotels Near Corso Italia

A field-tested guide to hotels near corso italia, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hotels · Guide 54

Best Rifugi Near Cortina for an Overnight Stay

A field-tested guide to best rifugi near cortina for an overnight stay, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Hotels · Guide 55

Camping and Campervan Stops Near Cortina

A field-tested guide to camping and campervan stops near cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Restaurants · Guide 56

Best Restaurants in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to best restaurants in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Restaurants · Guide 57

Traditional Ladin Food to Try in Cortina

A field-tested guide to traditional ladin food to try in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Restaurants · Guide 58

Best Mountain Rifugi for Lunch Near Cortina

A field-tested guide to best mountain rifugi for lunch near cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Restaurants · Guide 59

Best Pizza in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to best pizza in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Restaurants · Guide 60

Best Cafés and Bakeries in Cortina

A field-tested guide to best cafés and bakeries in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Restaurants · Guide 61

Fine Dining in Cortina

A field-tested guide to fine dining in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Restaurants · Guide 62

Vegetarian and Vegan Food in Cortina

A field-tested guide to vegetarian and vegan food in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Restaurants · Guide 63

Where to Eat in Cortina With Kids

A field-tested guide to where to eat in cortina with kids, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 64

One Day in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to one day in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 65

Two Days in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to two days in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 66

Three Days in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to three days in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 67

Five Days in Cortina and the Dolomites

A field-tested guide to five days in cortina and the dolomites, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 68

One Week in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to one week in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 69

A Perfect Summer Weekend in Cortina

A field-tested guide to a perfect summer weekend in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 70

A Perfect Winter Weekend in Cortina

A field-tested guide to a perfect winter weekend in cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 71

Dolomites Road Trip From Venice via Cortina

A field-tested guide to dolomites road trip from venice via cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 72

Cortina to Lake Garda Road Trip

A field-tested guide to cortina to lake garda road trip, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Itineraries · Guide 73

Cortina Honeymoon Itinerary

A field-tested guide to cortina honeymoon itinerary, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Olympics 2026 · Guide 74

Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics Visitor Guide

A field-tested guide to cortina 2026 winter olympics visitor guide, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Olympics 2026 · Guide 75

How to Get Cortina 2026 Tickets

A field-tested guide to how to get cortina 2026 tickets, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Olympics 2026 · Guide 76

Where to Stay for the Milan Cortina Olympics

A field-tested guide to where to stay for the milan cortina olympics, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Olympics 2026 · Guide 77

Cortina 2026 Venues Explained

A field-tested guide to cortina 2026 venues explained, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Olympics 2026 · Guide 78

Getting Around During the 2026 Winter Olympics

A field-tested guide to getting around during the 2026 winter olympics, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Olympics 2026 · Guide 79

What the 2026 Olympics Mean for Cortina

A field-tested guide to what the 2026 olympics mean for cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Seasonal · Guide 80

Cortina in Spring

A field-tested guide to cortina in spring, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Seasonal · Guide 81

Cortina in Summer

A field-tested guide to cortina in summer, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Seasonal · Guide 82

Cortina in Autumn

A field-tested guide to cortina in autumn, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Seasonal · Guide 83

Cortina in Winter

A field-tested guide to cortina in winter, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Seasonal · Guide 84

Christmas in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to christmas in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Seasonal · Guide 85

Cortina in June

A field-tested guide to cortina in june, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Seasonal · Guide 86

Cortina in September

A field-tested guide to cortina in september, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Seasonal · Guide 87

Cortina in October

A field-tested guide to cortina in october, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Photography · Guide 88

Best Photography Locations Around Cortina

A field-tested guide to best photography locations around cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Photography · Guide 89

How to Photograph the Dolomites at Sunrise

A field-tested guide to how to photograph the dolomites at sunrise, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Photography · Guide 90

Best Sunset Viewpoints Near Cortina

A field-tested guide to best sunset viewpoints near cortina, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Photography · Guide 91

Dolomites Drone Photography Rules

A field-tested guide to dolomites drone photography rules, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Photography · Guide 92

Cortina Photography Itinerary

A field-tested guide to cortina photography itinerary, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Planning · Guide 93

What to Pack for Cortina in Summer

A field-tested guide to what to pack for cortina in summer, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Planning · Guide 94

What to Pack for a Cortina Ski Trip

A field-tested guide to what to pack for a cortina ski trip, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Planning · Guide 95

Dolomites Hiking Gear Checklist

A field-tested guide to dolomites hiking gear checklist, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Planning · Guide 96

Driving in the Dolomites: Roads, Tolls, and Fuel

A field-tested guide to driving in the dolomites: roads, tolls, and fuel, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Planning · Guide 97

Parking in Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to parking in cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Planning · Guide 98

Using Buses Around Cortina and the Dolomites

A field-tested guide to using buses around cortina and the dolomites, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Weather · Guide 99

Cortina Weather by Month

A field-tested guide to cortina weather by month, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

Weather · Guide 100

Best Time to Visit Cortina d'Ampezzo

A field-tested guide to best time to visit cortina d'ampezzo, with honest logistics, current planning advice, and the small details that make a Dolomites trip run smoothly.

The Cortina Dispatch

Better trips start with better notes.

Seasonal trail intelligence, honest hotel picks, and one extraordinary Dolomites idea, delivered twice a month.